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Wine
Cabinet
The following articles are a delight to research and write. My primary
focus is on the wines, wineries, and winemakers of the Pacific
Northwest.
However, I often take writing side trips to the wines and beers of other
areas of the world, especially Italy, because my genealogy is Italian on
both sides of the family, eg., both mother and father.
I value readers inputs, and will endeavor to respond to e-mails and
letters. He can be emailed at info@tomassiwinecabinet.com |
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Trip to
Walla Walla
A September trip with friends to the
Walla Walla, Tri-Cities and Yakima Valley Appellations is a great travel
and wine tasting experience. If you plan to go, do get the
>Washington
State Touring Guide=
available at many local wine shops.
Our trip was definitely an enjoyable
success. Enjoyable because we shared it with good friends, and
successful because we visited some of the older wineries we had visited
before, and some newer wineries that we had not visited previously. And
the wines we tasted were excellent.
It was a beautiful day for the
relatively leisurely, six hour, trip, driving across the Snoqualmie
Pass. The lunch stop at the rest stop/park after passing Yakima was a
great spread of picnic foods, then on to Walla Walla. On the way back we
stopped at wineries in the Tri-cities and Yakima Valley Appellations and
returned over White Pass with its magnificent mountain views.
The tremendous growth of the
Washington wine industry was evident in each of the appellations. There
are so many that we had to pick and choose some of the best. Between the
six of us I think we tasted umpteen-eleven wines and enjoyed every one.
The Walla Walla area visits included a
number of excellent wineries, including the well-known L=Ecole
No. 41, Waterbrook and Woodward Canyon. Newer wineries visited included
Renninger, Three Rivers, Forgeron, Walla Walla Village and Sapolil.
On the way back, we visited the Red
Mountain Appellation near Richland, stopping at Terra Blanca, Fidelitas,
Barnard Griffin and Bookwalter. We bought some great chocolates from
Chucker Cherries on the way into Prosser and enjoyed dinner that night
in Prosser, at the Blue Goose restaurant, an old favorite.
We each bought wines at various
wineries. Some selected:
Wine of the Week: Terra Blanca, Benton
City, WA. 2005 Viognier ($16). 88% Viognier and 12% Roussanne Aromas and
flavors of apricot, peach and pear with a hint of spice. Pair with light
poultry, pasta sauces or a cheese and cracker plate.
Terra Blanca 2004 Malbec ($19.60).
Purple-red color, with aromas and flavors of black fruit, white pepper
and spice. Pair with spicy red sauces, barbequed spare ribs or Cajun
cooking.
Bookwalter, Richland 2006 Stillwater
Creek Chardonnay ($14.60) has rich aromas of bananas, butterscotch and
tropical fruit, flavors of cashews, melons and citrus and a balanced
finish. Pair with poultry in a white sauce.
Barnard Griffin, Richland, 2005 Merlot
($25). Deep red color. Aromas and flavors of black currant, blueberry
and generous hints of oak. Pair with robust meat like beef, mutton or
lamb.
Three Rivers Winery 2005 Malbec-Merlot
($25). (Sold exclusively at the winery) Aromas and flavors of sweet
cherry, black berry and hints of coffee and cocoa.
Reninger, Walla Walla, 2004 Helix
Merlot. ($22) Aromas and flavors of dried plum, dark cherry, and
raspberry, with a hint of sweet vanilla, dark chocolate and cedar spice.
One of the
highlights of the entire trip was dinner at the new Saffron
Mediterranean Kitchen on West Alder Street in Walla Walla. Both the food
and the service were excellent, and the prices reasonable. The wines
were mostly Washington State, also reasonably priced, eg., no more than
twice retail. Do eat there if you=re
in the area, and you=ll
need reservations.
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Origins of Halloween
"As far as I am
concerned, there are only two types of wine, those I like and those I
don't." The Essential Wine Buff, 1996
Researching my
genealogy has been longtime hobby, because of my curiosity about the
origins and history of things, especially wine, beer and spirits. My
sister in Connecticut recently informed me that a cousin there has a
part of the genealogy I=ve
been searching for a long time. I immediately called him and he=ll
send photos and documents with lots of information on the Tomassi
family genealogy.
If you=re
also interested in origins and history, the internet is an excellent
place to do some quick research. Remembering my childhood fun on
Halloween, I Googled
>Origins
of Halloween=
and discovered 211,000 entries. Reading through them all - only kidding
- just the first 10, there are some very interesting sites.
There=s
lots of information on Halloween=s
origins with the Celts (Kelts), who lived 2,000 years ago in the area
that is now Ireland, the United Kingdom, and northern France, and trace
its history through modern times. The sites also explain why the date
was selected and the changes in the various customs such as
>Trick
or Treat=
and >bobbing
for apples=.
On the night of
October 31, the Celts celebrated Samhain, (So-wen) when it was believed
that the ghosts of the dead returned to earth. During the celebration,
the Celts wore costumes, typically consisting of animal heads and skins,
and attempted to tell each other's fortunes.
By A.D. 43,
Romans had conquered the majority of Celtic territory. In the course of
the four hundred years that they ruled the Celtic lands, some festivals
of Roman origin were combined with the traditional Celtic celebration of
Samhain.
One was a day to
honor Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruit and trees. The symbol of Pomona
is the apple and the incorporation of this celebration into Samhain
probably explains the tradition of "bobbing" for apples that is
practiced today on Halloween.
There=s
lots more interesting stuff on Halloween, so I recommend you do the
Google bit. So what has this to do with wine, beer and spirits?
Absolutely nothing! Unless you think there=s
a relationship between alcoholic spirits and the Halloween spirit world.
And I strongly recommend against handing out wine or beer to
>Trick
or Treating=
kids.
With the holidays
coming up, some friends have asked about wines that don=t
cost an arm and a leg, say in the under $15 range. Here are some from
Washington State:
Covey Run Quail
Series, 2005 Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon ($9),
Morio Muscat ($8); Pine and Post 2005 Merlot ($6); Pavin & Riley 2005
Chardonnay ($10); Sockeye 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($12); Waterbrook
Winery 2004 Melange ($15) and 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($14).
If you=re
bobbing for Halloween apples and make an apple pie, try the Chateau Ste.
Michelle, WA. 2006 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley ($10). 91%
Gewurztraminer, 9% Muscat Canelli. An off-dry white with aromas and
flavors of lychee nuts, nutmeg and clove spice. Medium bodied and
balanced finish. Food Pairing: crab, chicken, Asian dishes
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What=s
the difference between aroma and bouquet?
Got an e-mail the
other day from a friend who wrote, "I've formed a new group called
Alcoholics Unanimous. If you don't feel like drinking a glass of wine,
you ring another member and he comes over to persuade you." Oh boy!
Other more serious correspondence asked a variety of questions, the
answers to which might be informative to readers.
Q: What=s
the difference between aroma and bouquet?
A: Bouquet refers to
smells from winemaking, like yeast and oak from oak barrels. Aroma means
smells from the grapes that are picked up from what the French call
>terroir=
(tare-wah), which is the term for the natural environment of any
viticultural site.
Jancis Robinson=s
AThe
Oxford Companion to Wine@
explains that terroir is the combination of climate as measured buy
temperature and rainfall; sunlight energy at the site; topography
including altitude, slope and aspect or direction the slope faces;
geology - the soil=s
basic physical and chemical characteristics, and hydrology or the
soil-water relationship. (More than you wanted to know?)
If you tend to mix
up bouquet and aroma, you'll be frowned upon by the two people in the
world that think this is important. So use
>Nose=,
and that=ll
cover both.
Q. What is meant by
the
>tears=
in wine?
A. It=s
a wine that makes you cry - only kidding. Tears are the rivulets of wine
that slowly glide down the glass after swirling the wine, also called
legs. They=re
related to surface tension differences between water and alcohol. The
more alcoholic the wine, the slower the legs go down the glass and the
more defined they are. This doesn’t indicate a better wine, just a more
alcoholic one.
Q. What=s
the difference between Syrah and Shiraz?
A. Syrah and Shiraz
are made from the same grape. The only difference is the style in which
it is made. When you see
>Syrah=,
you can expect a more subtle style of wine, reminiscent of what you
would find in a French wine from the Rhone region of France.
When you see the
word
>Shiraz=,
you can pretty much count on the wine being made in the Australian
style, which means big, bold fruit, and probably a strong sense of oak.
Q. What does the
term
>Reserve=
on a bottle label signify ?
A. In Europe,
Reserve is a legal term with very strict rules about quality and ageing.
In America, it often doesn’t mean much. In the best sense, some wineries
use it for their best grapes; to a few it might mean more oak; still
others slap it on their bottles indiscriminately. So rather look for the
word
>Estate
Grown=,
meaning grapes grown in the vineyards owned by the winery.
Wine Tip: passed on
from daughter Tracy! Save your corks. No, I'm not suggesting making
trivets or cork boards (though great ideas) but to use them as mulch
around outdoor potted plants or around shrubs. I use them in my garden
and I believe the cork mulch saved many of my plants during our last icy
blast. Besides they look cool and they're not in a landfill.
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Covey Run Winery
2007 marks the
25th anniversary of Covey Run Winery. Since the release of the 1982
vintage, Covey Run has crafted high quality, economically priced wines
from Washington's Columbia River Valley. Their wines have been popular
with consumers and have earned twenty Wine Spectator Best Values awards.
Covey Run's
portfolio includes two distinctive tiers of fine wine ‑ Quail Series
and Columbia Valley Reserve ‑ delicious wines for every occasion, from
stylish entertaining to casual gatherings and picnics with family and
friends.
Covey Run wines are
produced by Centerra Wine Company at their winery (not open to the
public) in Sunnyside, Washington. Centerra is the popular‑priced and
premium wine producer of Constellation Wines U.S., which is part of
Constellation Wines, the world's largest wine business, an operating
division of Constellation Brands, Inc. (NYSE: STZ and STZ.B) ("CBI").
Covey Run hired a
new winemaker, Ms. Kate Michaud effective August 1, 2007. Michaud will
oversee production of Covey Run's popular Quail Series of wines as well
as the limited‑production Columbia Valley Reserve tier. She comes from
Washington's Canoe Ridge Vineyard where she held the post of Associate
Winemaker.
Wine has long been
an integral part of Michaud's life. She said "I was exposed to wine at a
'tender age'. I was raised in the United Kingdom and traveled
extensively throughout Europe as I was growing up. My parents always
served wine with family meals."
Along with local
winemaking experience, Michaud has worked in New Zealand, Margaret River
Australia and California's Central Coast. However, it is the chance to
work amongst the burgeoning Washington wine industry that most excited
her.
"This is an
incredible position. I'm honored that Covey Run has offered me this
opportunity, one that will allow me to work with the region's
world‑class fruit. I hope in the wines I make, consumers will become
more aware of the amazing quality that Washington wines have to offer,"
states Michaud.
One of my favorites
is the 2004 Lemberger, Quail Series ($9). 100% Lemberger. It=s
a medium bodied, dry red with a bright purple hue. Fresh cherries, red
berries and plum aromas and flavor, it has a fresh acidic structure and
soft tannins on the finish. Pairs well with barbequed beef, pork or
chicken.
Sweet wine lovers
will enjoy the 2005 Morio Muscat, Quail Series ($8). 100% Morio Muscat.
Aromas of ripe tangerine, kiwi, clover, meadow flowers; peach and
honeysuckle flavors. Food Pairing: Ideally suited to creamy goat cheese,
toasted almonds, stone fruits, apples and pears. Also desserts such as
cheesecake and caramel/nut dishes, or can be enjoyed on its own.
Other recent
releases include: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Quail Series ($9); 2003 Syrah,
Winemaker=s
Collection ($13) and 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Quail Series ($9)
Visit
www.coveyrun.com for more information
about Covey Run Wines
For those who would
like to become more familiar with the local wineries, the owners are
usually open to volunteer help during the Fall, winter and spring for
grape picking, crush and bottling.
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Paso Robles, CA. Wine
Country
The Paso
Robles, CA. Wine Country Alliance hosted a media lunch at Seattle=s
Dahlia Lounge, with Paso Robles icon Mr. Gary Eberle, Eberle Winery,
Mr. Tommy Oldre, Tablas Creek Winery and Opolo Vineyards=
Mr. Fredrick Potruch National Sales and Marketing Manager.
We started with Eberle=s
1987 and 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon library wines - that means they=re
most likely not for sale. I don=t
often get the opportunity to taste ten and twenty year old wines
from outstanding winemakers like Eberle, and I have to tell you that
these were fantabulous!
Softened by a few years in the
bottle, these are smooth, full-bodied wines, still holding their
dark red color. The 1987 had the expected light aromas and flavors
of chocolate and leather, with hints of mint.
The 1997 was considerably more
powerful with aromas of blackberry and cherry with hints of oak. The
palate felt a gracefully structured wine, that is, a balance of
fruit, acids and tannins and a smooth, lingering mouth feel on the
finish.
Opolo Vineyards was represented by
Mr. Fredrick Potruch, National Sales and Marketing Manager who
presented their 2004 Petite Verdot and 2005
>Mountain=
Zinfandel. The Zin was
>huge=.
I could smell its aromas from about eighteen inches away.
After lunch there was a one hour
tasting and seminar on the Paso Robles Region at the Seattle=s
Palace Ballroom presented by Mr. Eberly and Mr. Tommy Oldre
representing Paso Robles Rhone wines from Tablas Creek Winery. We
learned that the Paso Robles appellation is located about half way
between San Francisco and Los Angeles, and is California=s
fastest growing wine region.
Each winemaker discussed his
winery and wines. Eberle gave special attention to the Cabernet
Sauvignon and Rhone varietals for which the area is so well known.
He believes that the Cabs are at least equal to, if not better than,
those from the rest of California.
After academic and athletic
success at Penn State in the 1960s, and while attending Louisiana
State University for a doctorate in zoology, a professor introduced
him to the world of wine and changed his life.
In 1973 he persuaded the faculty
at UC Davis to admit him into the winemaking doctoral program
without the necessary qualifying exam. (Didn’t tell us how he did
that!) After UC Davis he headed his family=s
Estrella winery in Paso Robles.
In 1980 he co-founded the Paso
Robles Appellation, and in 1983 opened the Eberle Winery. After more
than 25 years, the winery consistently remains one of the highest
award-winning wineries in the United States.
After the seminar we attended the
Grand Tasting of Paso Robles wines also at the Palace Ballroom where
we had the opportunity to choose among any of the sixty wines of
twenty two different varietals from fifteen different wineries.
Testing Eberle=s
belief at the Grand Tasting, found that I tended to agree, not only
about the Cabs, but also the Zins. Other Cabs tasted and enjoyed
include 2003 Clautiere, $28; 2005 J. Lohr, $17 and 2004, $30; 2005
Robert Hall, Silver Horse and Wild Horse, $21 each.
Eberle Winery 2004 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon ($30). Rich black currant and black cherry aromas and
flavors with hints of mocha.
Zins tasted were 2005s from
Eberle, $20, Four Vines $24, and Opolo, $19 and $26.
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Does wine go with Barbecue?
Although beer
is the favorite of many to go with burgers and hot dogs, wine is
better with most other barbecued food. With the proliferation of gas
barbecues, more and more outdoor cooking is being done. At our home
we still have the old-fashioned briquette barbecue which Kathy
prefers, but I understand the ease involved with using gas.
Readers know
that I do not favor heavily oaked Chardonnay. The exception might be
with grilled fish or vegetables. I prefer lightly oaked wines, or
better yet, those fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral
oak barrels that don=t
impart much oak flavor to the wine.
Other whites
to enjoy with barbeque are Pinot Gris (Wine of the Week), Fume=
Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Rose=,
as these will pair well with barbequed white fish, pork and chicken.
Some I have
enjoyed in past barbeques:
Columbia
Winery, WA 2005 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley ($14 ). 100% Pinot Gris;
A dry white with aromas & flavors of citrus and sweet fruits and
hint of minerals. Look for lemon and lemongrass on a crisp finish.
Great with barbequed shrimp. Other excellent Columbia Winery wines
are the 2002 Merlot and Syrah, Columbia Valley, each $15.
Barron
Philippe De Rothschild FR. NV Mouton Cadet Blanc ($9). A blend of
50% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Muscadelle, a Bordeaux style
dry white with aromas of citrus and tropical fruit and flavors of
grapefruit, mango and apricot.
Hartford
Family Winery, CA. 2005 Chardonnay ($40). 100% Chardonnay. Aromas
and flavors of white peach, citrus blossom, Asian pear, candied
lemon; long, spicy finish.
The Osborne,
Spain 2005 Solaz Blanco ($9). A straw yellow color with steel edges,
aromas and flavors of tropical fruit and anise and a smooth,
balanced finish.
A more meaty
fish such as tuna or salmon needs a Pinot Noir or Merlot. Try
Cathedral Ridge Winery, OR. 2005 Pinot Noir ($24). 100% Pinot Noir.
Aromas and flavors of baked blueberry pie, it has a medium body and
smooth finish. Or treat yourself to Domaine Serene, Dayton OR. 2004
Pinot Noir ($50). Aromas of dark cherry, red raspberry, and earth;
flavors of black raspberry, violets, and oak spice; a long, seamless
finish. Wow!
Barbequed red
meat like steak deserves a good Merlot or Zinfandel. We=re
talking here about a lean steak like a filet. Try the Fritz, CA.
2004 Estate Zinfandel ($25). 100% Zinfandel with aromas and flavors
of spicy black fruit, hints of spices, violets and prunes. A
balanced wine with a spicy finish.
Clos Du Val,
Napa, CA. 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley ($26). A blend of 96% Merlot, 4%
Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of spice, black fruit, dried herbs, hint
of toast; flavors of black fruit and herbs; full bodied with a
soft, lingering finish.
Ribeye steak,
which has more fat, will benefit from a Cabernet or Barolo. The
tannin helps cut the richness of the fat. Try Sockeye WA. 2005
Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21%
Cabernet Franc. Aromas of black cherries, herbs and cedar; flavors
of leather, cedar and black cherries; full body; long, smooth
finish.
I found a La
Logia, Italy 2002 Barolo at Trader Joe=s
in Seattle for $16. A great tasting Barolo at a bargain price, as is
their Barbera.
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Rose' Wines
Rose=
wines are often called the 'summertime wines'.
2003 was the 30th anniversary of
the invention of the rose=
wine labeled White Zinfandel. In the USA, it was 1973, at Sutter Home
Winery in St. Helena, California where owner Bob Trinchero, seeking to
give his red Zinfandel more color and flavor, used an old French trick
called saignee, or "bleeding."
Immediately after
the grapes were crushed, he bled away some of the juice to make the
remaining juice more concentrated as it soaked on the skins. A friend
suggested that Trinchero also save the saignee juice. He vinified it,
but customers complained that it was too dry, so he sweetened it. Then
his consumers loved it, and white zin was born.
Rose's exploded
in popularity, making up 24 percent of all varietal wine from California
by the 1990s before falling back a bit recently. Critics bashed it, and
all blush wines, as too bland, too simple - wine for people who don't
really like wine. Not necessarily true.
Trinchero
believed that since wine critics are trained in classic fine wine, they
don't come to grips with the everyday enjoyment of everyday wine. He
said that even in Europe, what most people drink is vin ordinaire from
plastic, screw-top bottles. He has introduced millions of Americans to
the pleasures of wine drinking. Trinchero has taken his white zin from
550 cases that first year to 4.8 million in 2002.
It is thought
that the first rose=
wines probably came from Greece in ancient times. The Greeks even had a
myth for the practice of adding water to wine, therefore diluting the
color of red wine. According to the myth, Amphictyon, son of Deucalion
and Pyrrah, ordered the wine mixed with water at meetings of his
councilors to dilute its strength and therefore cut down on drunkenness
and quarrels.
So we can assume,
mythologically speaking, that rose=
was born in ancient times. In reality it was probably a far more
practical happenstance like a rushed fermentation on the skins, leaving
only a little color, but obviously an appealing color to the
artistically inclined Greeks.
Rose=s
can be made from any red grape - Grenache, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir, Syrah,
Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel even Cabernet Sauvignon.
Some you might
enjoy:
Chateau Ste.
Michelle, WA. 2006 Dry Rose=,
Nellie=s
Garden ($13). Grape Varietals: 96% Syrah, 1.5 Grenache, 1.5% Viognier,
1% Mourvedre. A dry Rose=
with a light red color, it has aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry
raspberry with hints of spice, a medium body and balanced finish. Great
with spring and Summer BBQ=s.
Twin Finn, CA.
2006 Sunset Rose=
($10). Just absolutely made for Summertime sipping! This 100%
Sangiovese, off-dry Rose=
wine has aromas of rhubarb and vanilla and strawberry flavors. A medium
bodied wine with a nicely balanced finish.
Pietra Santa, CA.
2005 Rosato ($15-$20). An off-dry Rose=
from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it has aromas of rose petals and summer
fruit like its flavors of ripe strawberries and peaches. The 14.8
percent alcohol gives it a medium body and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Pair it with seafood and lighter cuisine, but also delicious on its own.
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The Puget Sound Appellation
A controlled
appellation is a specific geographical area authorized by the country of
origin. Gerard Bentryn, owner and winemaker of Bainbridge Island
Vineyards and Winery, was kind enough to remind me about some other
significant bits of information.
One of the most significant ideas
behind appellation control is that when winemakers place the name of the
appellation on their label it means that the winery has complied with
the rules and regulations of that appellation. This includes the rule
that the grapes for that specific wine are all grown within that
geographical area.
There can be any number of wineries
that exist within that geographical area, but not all of them follow the
rules and regulations of the controlled appellation. Those that don=t
can=t
put the appellation name on the label. It=s
similar to the idea that Kitsap County is a specific geographical area -
a controlled appellation - and there are cities within the county -
specific wineries - that follow the rules of that county, and are
allowed to use the name of the county in their address.
Also, wineries within an appellation
can make wine from grapes grown both in and out of the appellation, but
only the wines made from grapes within the appellation are allowed to
have the name of the appellation on the label.
Bentryn writes,
AIf
the wineries that insist on making Eastern Washington wine in Western
Washington used Puget Sound on any material that markets their wines,
including labels, shelf talkers, table tents, or literature, they would
be in clear violation not only of Federal law, but also, the moral law
that inspires true wine lovers all over the world.@
He believes that the issue is more
important now that insect pests are established in Eastern Washington.
AThe
insecticides used in Eastern Washington are extremely hazardous, killing
fish and birds, and reportedly causing spontaneous nosebleeds in field
workers. Grapes are being shipped from these contaminated areas to the
Puget Sound region. The potential to bring those pests here is very
real.@
He indicated that at least one of the
poisons being sprayed on Eastern Washington wine grapes is Imidchloprid.
It works by being absorbed directly into the grape vine, killing
anything that eats the vine. This doesn't sound like something Puget
Sound grape growers would like to be required to use.
Bentryn insists that no Puget Sound
Appellation vineyard and winery has ever sprayed any insecticide.
ASo,
the fact that real Puget Sound wine may be the only wine made from
unsprayed grapes is very important in itself, but it is also important
to distinguish wineries that do not use sprayed grapes from those that
do, and right now, Puget Sound Wineries make wine from insecticide free
grapes.@
You
can find more information on the issue in the WSU publication, "Crop
Profile for Wine Grapes in Washington" available online.
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Wines
for Christmas and New Years Celebrations
Readers ask about red wines, especially soft red wines, to have for
Christmas and New Years celebrations. Soft meaning smoother and less
tannic than the big Cabernet Sauvignon or Australian Shiraz. That brings
to mind some of the wines we've enjoyed in the past and plan on
selecting among for pairing with our holiday dinners. And most are easy
on the budget.
Saint Laurent, Malaga,
WA. 2004 Lucky Red ($15). A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Syrah
and 21% Merlot. This dry red blend has a dark, ruby red color; cherry,
currant, vanilla and black tea aromas and flavors, with hints of clove.
It s a medium-full bodied wine with a smooth, mouth- filling finish.
Food Pairing: red or white meat or rich pasta dishes in a meaty, spicy
tomato sauce.
Covey Run, WA. 2004
Lemberger, Quail Series ($9). 100% Lemberger. A dry red in a deep red
color with bright purple hues. Fresh cherry, red berry and plum aromas
and flavors. It has a medium body, fresh acidic structure and soft
tannins on the finish. Pairs well with beef, pork or chicken, best
barbequed.
Georges Duboeuf, France
2007 Beaujolais Nouveau ($11). 100% Gamay. A medium-dark red color, it
has raspberry and red currant aromas and flavors, a medium body and a
smooth, bright finish. Pairs nicely with turkey, roast ham or other
holiday fare.
Kendall-Jackson, Santa
Rosa, CA 2003 Meritage, Vintners Reserve ($12). A blend of 49% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry-red color, it
has espresso, dark chocolate, pomegranate and black cherry aromas and
flavors. A medium bodied wine with balanced finish. Pairs well with
tri-tip steak.
Osborne, Spain 2005
Solaz Merlot Tempranillo ($9). A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Tempranillo.
This dry red wine has a brilliant cherry red color with aromas and
flavors of jammy red fruit. It is a medium bodied wine with a balanced,
flavorful finish. Food Pairing: red or white meat, rich pasta dishes,
aged cheeses and fatty fish.
Jean-Luc Colombo,
France NV Cotes du Rhone Les Abeilles ($11). A blend of 50% Grenache,
30% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre. It s a dry red wine with a red-purple
color. The red fruit, leather and spice aromas are followed by licorice
and spice flavors. A medium bodied wine with a soft, balanced finish.
Will pair with turkey, roast ham or other holiday fare.
Cooper Mountain Winery,
Beaverton, OR. 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve ($45 ). Style: dry red;100% Pinot
Noir; medium dark red color; aromas of pine, cedar, and fresh forest
berry fruit; flavors of blueberries and plums; medium body; balanced
finish with nice acidity. Food Pairing: goes with many dishes. Those who
enjoy wines made with 100% Organically, Biodynamic and Estate grown
grapes, will like this one.
Rosemount Estate,
Australia 2006 Pinot Noir, ($10). 100% Pinot Noir. A bright red color
with purple hues, this Pinot has strawberry and raspberry aromas and
flavors with hints of rose petal, a medium body and a velvety soft
finish.
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Wine Customs and Traditions
A search of the
internet and some of my many wine books led to the source of some of the
wine customs and superstitions from the past that persist today.
The clinking of
glasses when offering a toast is a long observed custom. In the past,
superstitious drinkers worried that demons would take their souls if
they drank too much. To protect themselves, they clinked their glasses
together hoping the noise would scare them off.
The tradition of
breaking a bottle of champagne on the bow of a ship before its first or
maiden voyage dates back to pre-Christian pagan rites. Sailors who
wanted protection from the sea gods anger implored the goddess whose
image jutted out from the prow to assure their safety.
According to
historians, the custom was started by the Vikings, who used human
sacrifices to appease the gods. Before the ships were sent down the
ramps into the sea, slaves were tied to the rollers. Their blood was
caught then sprinkled over the prow to appease the gods and protect the
sailors from enemies. In time this gory custom was replaced by the less
gory tradition of breaking a bottle of red wine on the prow. Sometime
later, Champagne became as the sacrifice of choice.
The custom of pouring
wine into the host's glass
before filling the guest's
dates back to medieval times when assassination was a popular way to
dispose of enemies. One of the easiest ways was to serve the victim the
poisoned wine. As a show of faith the host poured a few drops of wine
into his own glass to drink first.
Others believe the
custom came about as a way to make sure any stray pieces of cork would
be deposited in the host's glass. (This is something I do routinely.)
However, the Italians
observed this custom long before corks were invented. They topped wine
bottles with oil to seal the neck of the container, much the same way
that a glass of jelly is sealed today with paraffin. The oil was poured
off before the bottle was presented to the host, who then poured a few
drops into his glass to make sure oil was not floating on top of the
wine.
Spilling wine. The
superstition that spilled wine threatens health and safety originated in
ancient times when it was believed that the juice of the grapes
represented blood and contained its own spirit. If the wine was spilled,
it was a warning that an evil spirit would take over the culprit's
spirit.
To avoid the threat
from the evil spirit, the spiller rubbed the wine behind his ear using
the middle finger of the right hand (don't go there). The area behind
the ears was believed to be invulnerable, and the right middle finger
the proper digit with which to undo evil influences.
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Riesling Wines for Mother’s
Day
Mother=s
day is Sunday, May 11 this year, and a good wine gift would be a
Riesling wine such as the Wine of the Week Chateau Ste. Michelle WA.
2006 Riesling from their Cold Creek Vineyard.
Appreciation for
Riesling wine in general is not now, nor has it ever been, as
enthusiastic as one would expect. Its lack of popularity has confounded
its winemakers about as much as its history.
The Riesling vine
is said to be traced back to Germany and the year 1435. Throughout the
history of Riesling there are numerous writings about this grape from
1552 to 1721. Most of these writings come from Germany and describe the
Riesling grape growing in the Rhine valley.
By the end of the
19th century Riesling was the dominant grape variety in the Rheingau
region of Germany. But the early 20th century saw a rapid decline in the
acceptance of the wine that appears to have lasted until recently. This
prompted Germany to reserve land especially for growing the grape, and
now the Riesling grape is treated as a national treasure in Germany.
The first
reference to this grape in Australia was in 1820 in New South Wales.
Riesling Wine means different things to different people and in
Australia the word Riesling actually refers to any sweet wine variety.
Stricter laws have been enforced recently, so when you see Riesling on
the label you are in fact getting a wine made from Riesling grapes.
Washington State
appears to be bringing back Riesling and its acceptance has been
increasing. I know that when I have the urge for a sweet wine for
dinner, I look in my wine cabinet for a Riesling. Right now I have three
new releases of Chateau Ste. Michelle WA.2005 Riesling, Columbia Valley
($10.00), and 2006 Riesling, Cold Creek ($14) 2006 Dry Riesling,
Columbia Valley ($10.00) and one Owen Roe OR. 2002 Riesling ($12). Good
ones last a long time.
Over the past few
years our wine tasting group has had the pleasure of tasting a number of
2005 Washington State Rieslings including those from Avery Lane ($7),
Hogue ($9) and Hogue Genesis ($16). There is also a Dry Riesling from
Covey Run ($8) and Washington Hills Late Harvest Riesling ($9).
A Dry Riesling is
made from grapes that have full ripe flavors, but not too much sugar.
The resulting wine has a very slight perception of sweetness. On the
other hand, a Late Harvest Riesling has a rich, fruity sweetness that
might go well with the natural sugars of roasted pears in a free-form
tart.
I=ve
also tasted 2005 Australian Rieslings from Banrock Station ($5), Emu
Wine Company Tasmania Riesling ($20) (Tasmania is an island125 miles
south of the eastern side of the continent, being separated from it by
Bass Strait), and had a wine tasting party that included a Hardys Stamp
of Australia Riesling 4 ltr box ($18).
Happy Mother=s
Day to all.
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The Origins of Father’s Day
Happy Father=s
day! Father's Day was created as a day for children to honor their
fathers. Of the recorded origins, the one I like best was said to have
begun in Spokane, Washington.
Ms. Sonora Smart
got the idea of having a Father's Day while listening to a Mother's Day
sermon in 1909. After the death of her mother, she and her siblings were
raised by their father, William Jackson Smart. Ms. Smart wanted to tell
her father how special he was, so she chose to hold the first Father's
Day celebration in Spokane on his birthday, June 19, 1910.The National
Father's Day Committee was formed in New York City in 1926. A Joint
Resolution of Congress recognized Father's day in 1956, and in 1966
President Richard Nixon established a permanent national observance of
Father's Day to be held on the third Sunday of June. Thus, Father's Day
was born in memory and appreciation by a daughter who believed that her
father and all other fathers should be honored with a special day.
Many people think
flowers are just for women and are a feminine present. However dad's
appreciate the gift of flowers too because they are a loving and
thoughtful gift.
Traditionally fathers are given the
gift of white or red roses, though some may prefer more macho plants or
flowers that a florist can recommend. If you wear a flower on Father's
Day you should wear a red rose if your father is alive or a white rose
in memory of him.
Of course, my idea of a great Father=s
Day gift for a living dad would be a bottle of wine - surprise! - and a
big hug. Either a red or a white wine is appropriate. Wife Kathy
suggests a bottle of Port for red, and I believe a bottle of Viognier is
fine for white.
I really enjoyed the Wine of the Week.
Other excellent Port selections include Cockburn=s,
Spain 1998 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Porto ($20), and Hardys, Australia
NV Tawny Port ($13)
For white try
Wattle Creek Winery, CA. 2005 Viognier ($31). Aromas of white peach
blossom, stone fruit and hints of toasted oak; flavors of nectarine with
hints of lychee. It has a medium body, nice length, crisp, clean finish.
Food Pairing: chevre or other white cheeses.
Other Viogniers
to try are Cline Cellars, Sonoma, CA. 2004 ($10), Victor Hugo Winery CA.
2004 ($17), Clautiere Vineyard CA. 2003 Estate Viognier ($23)
Washington
wineries showing Viogniers at Taste Washington include Alexandria Nicole
Cellars 2006 ($18); Bunnell Family Cellar 2006 ($22); Caterina 2003
($20); Chatter Creek 2006 ($20); Coeur d=Alene
Cellars 2005 ($18); Coyote Canyon Winery Estate 2006; Nefarious Cellars
2006 ($16); Seia Wine Cellars 2004 ($17); Vin du Lac Winery Viognier
2005 ($17.99); Whitman Cellars Viognier 2005 ($19) and Willis Hall
Viognier 2005 ($19.99)
Happy Father's Day
to all.
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Enological, or Wine, Society Chapters are now found in many areas
throughout the Pacific Northwest.
Grapes and
settlers spread across Washington State in the early 1800s, but a big
wine event didn't take place until 1910 when the first annual Columbia
Valley Grape Carnival was held in Kennewick, WA.
Today's
world-wide acclaimed fine Washington State wines, and over 500 wineries,
really began with what is now Chateau Ste. Michelle=s
commercial plantings in the 1960s and 70s. Seattle wine enthusiasts
started meeting in the 1970s to learn more about wine and promote its
enjoyment with food. In 1975 they created the Enological Society of the
Pacific Northwest. In 2004 they changed the name to the Seattle Wine
Society.
Enological, or
Wine, Society Chapters are now found in many areas throughout the
Pacific Northwest. Each chapter is individually registered with the
State as a non-profit organization with 501-C7 status.
Beginning our
couple membership with the Seattle chapter in the 1990s, we transferred
our membership to the Olympic Peninsula Enological Society (OPES)
chapter when it started in the Sequim area in 2002. But we were
concerned about the long drive to both chapters after wine tasting.
So in January,
2003, I conned good friend Ms. Mary Earl, owner of Grape Expectations
fine Wine Shop in Silverdale, into helping us start the Kitsap Wine
Society (KWS). Flyers with membership applications were distributed
along with my wine class flyers, and the response was immediate.
By May there were
40 charter members signed up and we soon had ninety members. A
preliminary Board of Trustees applied for and were granted non-profit
status with the state, elections were held for board members, and our
chapter was on its way.
The Kitsap Wine
Society is non‑profit organization run entirely by member/volunteers,
whose goals include educating members about the wonderful world of wine,
bringing together wine lovers to share good wine, good food, and
conversation about both.
The group ranges
in experience from what some might describe as wine snobs to neophytes,
all wishing to learn more about wine. Members live on the Kitsap
Peninsula of Washington State, that is, between the Tacoma Narrows and
Hood Canal Bridges.
Most chapter Web
sites have links to the other chapters, so you can get the most up to
date information at the Web site of the chapter you=re
interested in. There is a small yearly membership fee which entitles one
to attend the meetings of any chapter as a member. Monthly meetings are
educational wine-food events for which a small fee is charged.
To become a
member, visit the KWS Web site, www.kitsapwines.org. the Web site also
lists location, times and costs for each event. Membership information
is also available from the Membership Chair, currently Ms. Mary Earl, at
698-0522.
KWS Spring,
2008 meetings planned:
January 26th:
Sparkling wines and Dessert wines.
March 15th:
Pinot Calif Santa Rita Hills vs Oregon, Mr. Bob Bently, chairman.
April 12th:
High end Cab tasting, Chuck Tourville, chairman.
May 3rd:
Local award winning Winemaker
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Travelling Washington
State Appellations
The Washington
Wine commission recently reported that Washington State is the second
largest premium wine producer in the United States. Their data shows 19
wineries in 1981, over 460 in 1997, and 500 now. There are 350 grape
growers working 30,000 acres to produce more than 20 grape varieties,
with a ratio of 57 percent red to 43 percent white.
It would be next
to impossible to visit every single one and taste their wines unless you
spent a lot of time each year devoted to winery tours. And even then the
numbers seem to be expanding so rapidly that you may never catch up -
horrors!
Over the past 15
years we=ve
managed to visit about half the wineries in each appellation, usually
with friends and family. We selected one appellation at a time and
visited as many of the wineries as possible over a three to four day
weekend.
A discussion of
AAppellation@
is cause for a column all by itself. Briefly, in her book, The Oxford
Companion to Wine, Master of Wine Jancis Robinson writes that an
appellation is a delimited geographical area recognized
A...to
establish a distinctive identity for the wines produced within it.@
Washington State
has nine appellations, the closest being our own Puget Sound Appellation
established in 1995. Our appellation currently has about fifty two
wineries including twelve on the Olympic Peninsula from Port Angeles to
Olympia. More on this in the future.
Another good way
to taste your way around Washington would be to attend events like Taste
Washington which is held each year, usually in March or April. This year
their Grand Tasting was held on April 15th at the Quest Field
Event Center in Seattle.
The event
showcased about 200 wineries each presenting two to four wines, and 60
Puget Sound restaurants serving one or two heavy hors d=oeuvres.
Prior to the
event, the wineries and restaurants get together and decide what food to
pair with which wine. Hors d=oeuvres
from each restaurant were paired with the wines from two or three
wineries and these were placed along side.
After sampling a
number of the restaurant=s
food offerings without wine, (lunch), I managed to taste through the
wines of about fifteen wineries in three hours, with the food pairings
offered.
Tasting this
number of wines at this type of event requires one to spit the wine into
the dump buckets provided and dump the rest of the wine. However (there=s
always an however), there=s
often some wines that I consider a sin to spit and dump.
The $85 general
admission cost was well worth it because the food and wine pairings were
outstanding. And that=s
a lot less expensive than traveling to most of our appellations.
(Looking at the map of attending wineries again I noticed that I missed
the dessert wine area, Darn! I=ll
look forward to next year!
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Ron Tweiten's
Harbor Square Tasting Room and Wine Shop
A media invitation to a tasting of Cline, California wines took me to
the Harbor Square Tasting Room and Wine Shop. Owner Mr. Ron Tweiten has
an elegant wine shop at 756 Winslow Way E. on Bainbridge Island. He
purchased the building in the Harbor Square area of Winslow soon after
its completion, and named the shop after the area.
The
Tweiten's have lived in Poulsbo since the early 1950s. He has a number
of years marketing experience, has participated in industry tastings,
knows the various distributors and understands local area customer s
preferences for wines. He
worked at North Sound Bank in Poulsbo for 10 years and retired in 2000
as a senior vice president.
He enjoyed being involved in wine as a hobby
for a number of years. He decided to fulfill his dream and opened the
Harbor Square Wine Shop & Tasting Room in February, 2000 shortly
after Larry Davidson, Tweiten s mentor, closed up his Winslow Wine Shop.
Son Jeff originally took the different
career path of graphic design, but eventually decided to join his father
in the wine business. He designed the interior layout of the shop and
when you visit you ll see that he has made it a most wine-lover friendly
shop.
The wines are displayed
in horizontal wine racks that keep the wine on the cork, and reaching
from the floor to almost chest high for great visibility. They are
staged by region instead of varietal which makes for a very interesting
display. The Tasting Room is set up for casual wine tasting with tall
tables and chairs placed at strategic locations around the room.
There are two unique wine storage areas that
you don t see in most other wine shops. The Wine Keeper Cuvnet is a
device for dispensing wine-by-the-glass, and holds twelve high quality
wines on nitrogen gas to prevent oxygen spoilage. A separate walk-in
room at the back of the shop holds the higher value wines at a constant
55 degrees F.
Five ounce tastings
cost from $5.50 for 2006 Lindeman s Bin 65 Shiraz, South Eastern
Australia to $17 for 2004 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Oregon. Tweiten
also has everyday tastings of unique wines, arranged in flights of
three, for $5. The retail value of the wines is between $20 and $50. For
example, a recent tasting of Northwest wines included an Isenhower
Cellars Vioginer, a Syzygy Winery red blend (both Walla Walla) and a
Domaine Drouhin, Oregon, Pinot Noir.
The shop has a
wide-ranging breadth and depth in its selection of wines - 660 labels
from around the world, and about 5,000 bottles in inventory, including
about 140 labels from Washington State. Costs range from $8 to $440 per
bottle, with many in the $10 to $20 value range. Tweiten said, These are
wines you won t find in the supermarkets.
Some of Tweiten's other
favorites: Quinta du Cresto, Douro, Spain ($38); Clarendon Hills,
Australia 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($46); Alexandria Nicole, Columbia
Valley 2006 Viognier ($18); Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling, 2005
Kabinet ($31).
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Controlled Appellation
A previous column
mentioned that a discussion of
Appellation
would be cause for an column all by itself. Further research revealed a
lot of interesting historical information. It looks like most, if not
all, winemaking countries have an appellation control system.
A controlled
appellation is a geographical‑based term used to identify where the
grapes for a wine were grown. Rules governing appellations depend on the
country that produces the wine. And the controlled appellation
designation takes on different but similar names in the language of each
country.
The world's first
vineyard classification system is said to have been introduced by the
Hungarians in Tokaj‑Hegyalja, Hungary in 1730. At that time vineyards
were classified into three categories depending on the soil, sun
exposure and potential to develop Botrytis cinerea.
A royal decree by
the Hungarian crown in 1757 established a closed production district in
Tokaj (Tokay). The classification system was completed by a national
censuses in 1765 and 1772.
The world's
second oldest appellation control was introduced in Portugal in 1756
pertaining to port wine which was produced in the region of the Douro
valley. Rioja was classified as a Denominacin de Origen in 1925 and
sherry in 1933.
In1935, the
Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO), a branch of the
French Ministry of Agriculture, was created to manage the administration
of the process for wines in France. In the Rhone wine region Baron
Pierre Le Roy Boiseaumari, a trained lawyer and winegrape grower from
Chateauneuf‑du‑Pape, successfully obtained legal recognition of the
"Cotes du Rhone" appellation of origin in 1937.
The AOC seal was
created and mandated by French laws in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. Prior
to 1935, despite the fact that the INAO was yet to be created, champagne
enjoyed an appellation control by virtue of legal protection as part of
the Treaty of Madrid (1891).
The treaty stated
that only sparkling wine produced in its namesake region and adhering to
the standards defined for that name as an Appellation d'Origine
Controlle could call itself champagne. This right was reaffirmed in the
Treaty of Versailles following World War I.
There are
currently over 170 viticultural areas that have been established in the
United States by the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau and over 100 are in
California. The first recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA) was
Augusta, Missouri, in 1980. The First in Washington was Yakima Valley in
1983. Puget Sound was fifth in 1995.
Thought
for the day: Men are like fine wine, they start out as grapes; and it's
up to the women to squeeze the heck out of them until they turn into
something acceptable to have dinner with.
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Start Holiday
Dinners With Sparkling Wine
We like to start Holiday dinners, in fact most
dinners with family and/or friends, with sparkling wine, whether there
are appetizers or not. It=s
just a most pleasant way to gather and enjoy their company, being ever
mindful of their love and support. It adds a celebratory note to the
meal and goes well with starters like soup and salad.
Most of the good sparklers are made with some
combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
One of my favorites is the Domaine Ste. Michelle,
Woodinville, WA. NV Extra Dry ($12). Primarily Chardonnay, this off-dry
sparkling wine is a rich gold color. It has aromas and flavors of pear,
guava and citrus, a medium body, and a lingering finish.
Another is the Domaine Ste. Michelle, WA. NV Blanc
de Blancs ($12). If you prefer a pink or rose=,
there=s Mumm
Napa CA. NV Blanc De Noirs ($18) and Taltarni Vineyards, Australia NV
Brut Tache=
Sparkling Rose=
($22).
The traditional Thanksgiving meal can be difficult
to match with wine. Roasted turkey, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce,
broccoli, Brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes all have different
flavors. Turkey meat is very dry in texture and needs a mouth-watering
wine to complement it.
Off-dry whites like Chenin Blanc and dry white
Riesling and dry whites such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Colombard,
Pinot Blanc and one of my favorites, Viognier, will satisfy the white
wine lover. Try Chateau Ste. Michelle WA. 2006 Pinot Grigio, Columbia
Valley ($13.00) or the Waterbrook Winery WA. 2005
Chardonnay ($13).
Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Gamay, Lemberger, Grenache
and Zinfandel have juicy, berry-ripe flavors that go well with turkey
and may suffice for the red wine lover. Try the Clos Du Val, CA. 2005
Pinot Noir, ($28), Cathedral Ridge Winery, OR. 2005 Zinfandel ($24) or
Eberle, Winery, CA. 2006 Viognier.
Ham pairs well with light reds like Gamay
Beaujolais and Pinot Noir, and white wines like Gewurztraminer, late
harvest Gewurztraminer, and off-dry Riesling. Try the Chateau Ste.
Michelle WA. 2006 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley ($10), Wild Horse
Winery &Vineyards, CA. 2005 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($25) or King
Estate, OR. 2004 Signature Pinot Noir ($26).
Some may forgo other wines and continue drinking
sparkling wine with either turkey or ham. And keep in mind that every
wine does not have to be perfectly matched with every food, and
visa-versa.
Since Thanksgiving dinner is often a banquet-style
meal, with everyone choosing the trimmings, why not do the same with
your wines? Offer both red and white, and possibly more than one
depending on the size of your group.
Complement or contrast. A big, buttery Chardonnay
can complement the roasted, smoky flavors of squash, chestnuts and pecan
stuffing. But if you'd rather have a contrast to the richness of cream
sauces and dressings, try a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
End on a sweet note. If anyone still has room left
when it's time for pumpkin or pecan pie, offer a late harvest wine or
Icewine. Try the Washington Hills, Seattle, WA. 2005 Columbia Valley
Late Harvest Riesling ($9). If you're a chocolate fan, try serving a
liqueur with complementary flavors such as raspberry or blackcurrant, or
the Bainbridge Island or Hoodsport Raspberry dessert wine.
We wish all a most enjoyable Thanksgiving Holiday.
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