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Nick Tomassi's Wine Cabinet

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The following articles are a delight to research and write. My primary focus is on the wines, wineries, and winemakers of the Pacific Northwest.

However, I often take writing side trips to the wines and beers of other areas of the world, especially Italy, because my genealogy is Italian on both sides of the family, eg., both mother and father.

I value readers inputs, and will endeavor to respond to e-mails and letters. He can be emailed at info@tomassiwinecabinet.com

Following is the Index of my articles.  Click on the titles and it will take you to the article
Trip to Walla Walla

Origins of Halloween

What=s the difference between aroma and bouquet?

Covey Run Winery

Paso Robles, CA. Wine Country

Does wine go with Barbecue?

Rose' Wines

The Puget Sound Appellation

Controlled Appellation

Travelling Washington State Appellations

Enological, or Wine, Society Chapters are now found in many areas throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Riesling Wines for Mother’s Day

The Origins of Father’s Day

Wine Customs and Traditions

Ron Tweiten's Harbor Square Tasting Room and Wine Shop

Start Holiday Dinners With Sparkling Wine

Wines for Christmas and New Years celebrations

Trip to Walla Walla

 A September trip with friends to the Walla Walla, Tri-Cities and Yakima Valley Appellations is a great travel and wine tasting experience. If you plan to go, do get the >Washington State Touring Guide= available at many local wine shops.

 Our trip was definitely an enjoyable success. Enjoyable because we shared it with good friends, and successful because we visited some of the older wineries we had visited before, and some newer wineries that we had not visited previously. And the wines we tasted were excellent.

 It was a beautiful day for the relatively leisurely, six hour, trip, driving across the Snoqualmie Pass. The lunch stop at the rest stop/park after passing Yakima was a great spread of picnic foods, then on to Walla Walla. On the way back we stopped at wineries in the Tri-cities and Yakima Valley Appellations and returned over White Pass with its magnificent mountain views.

 The tremendous growth of the Washington wine industry was evident in each of the appellations. There are so many that we had to pick and choose some of the best. Between the six of us I think we tasted umpteen-eleven wines and enjoyed every one.

 The Walla Walla area visits included a number of excellent wineries, including the well-known L=Ecole No. 41, Waterbrook and Woodward Canyon. Newer wineries visited  included Renninger, Three Rivers, Forgeron, Walla Walla Village and Sapolil.

 On the way back, we visited the Red Mountain Appellation near Richland, stopping at Terra Blanca, Fidelitas, Barnard Griffin and Bookwalter. We bought some great chocolates from Chucker Cherries on the way into Prosser and enjoyed dinner that night in Prosser, at the Blue Goose restaurant, an old favorite.

 We each bought wines at various wineries. Some selected:

 Wine of the Week: Terra Blanca, Benton City, WA. 2005 Viognier ($16). 88% Viognier and 12% Roussanne Aromas and flavors of apricot, peach and pear with a hint of spice. Pair with light poultry, pasta sauces or a cheese and cracker plate.

 Terra Blanca 2004 Malbec ($19.60). Purple-red color, with aromas and flavors of black fruit, white pepper and spice. Pair with spicy red sauces, barbequed spare ribs or Cajun cooking.

 Bookwalter, Richland 2006 Stillwater Creek Chardonnay ($14.60) has rich aromas of bananas, butterscotch and tropical fruit, flavors of cashews, melons and citrus and a balanced finish. Pair with poultry in a white sauce.

 Barnard Griffin, Richland, 2005 Merlot ($25). Deep red color. Aromas and flavors of black currant, blueberry and generous hints of oak. Pair with robust meat like beef, mutton or lamb.

 Three Rivers Winery 2005 Malbec-Merlot ($25). (Sold exclusively at the winery) Aromas and flavors of sweet cherry, black berry and hints of coffee and cocoa.

 Reninger, Walla Walla, 2004 Helix Merlot. ($22) Aromas and flavors of dried plum, dark cherry, and raspberry, with a hint of sweet vanilla, dark chocolate and cedar spice.

 One of the highlights of the entire trip was dinner at the new Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen on West Alder Street in Walla Walla. Both the food and the service were excellent, and the prices reasonable. The wines were mostly Washington State, also reasonably priced, eg., no more than twice retail. Do eat there if you=re in the area, and you=ll need reservations.

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Origins of Halloween

 "As far as I am concerned, there are only two types of wine, those I like and those I don't."  The Essential Wine Buff, 1996

 Researching my genealogy has been longtime hobby, because of my curiosity about the origins and history of things, especially wine, beer and spirits. My sister in Connecticut recently informed me that a cousin there has a part of the genealogy I=ve been searching for a long time. I immediately called him and he=ll send  photos and documents with lots of information on the Tomassi family genealogy.

 If you=re also interested in origins and history, the internet is an excellent place to do some quick research.  Remembering my childhood fun on Halloween, I Googled >Origins of Halloween= and discovered 211,000 entries. Reading through them all - only kidding - just the first 10, there are some very interesting sites.

 There=s lots of information on Halloween=s origins with the Celts (Kelts), who lived 2,000 years ago in the area that is now Ireland, the United Kingdom, and northern France, and trace its history through modern times. The sites also explain why the date was selected and the changes in the various customs such as >Trick or Treat= and >bobbing for apples=.

 On the night of October 31, the Celts celebrated Samhain, (So-wen) when it was believed that the ghosts of the dead returned to earth. During the celebration, the Celts wore costumes, typically consisting of animal heads and skins, and attempted to tell each other's fortunes.

 By A.D. 43, Romans had conquered the majority of Celtic territory. In the course of the four hundred years that they ruled the Celtic lands, some festivals of Roman origin were combined with the traditional Celtic celebration of Samhain.

 One was a day to honor Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruit and trees. The symbol of Pomona is the apple and the incorporation of this celebration into Samhain probably explains the tradition of "bobbing" for apples that is practiced today on Halloween.

 There=s lots more interesting stuff on Halloween, so I recommend you do the Google bit. So what has this to do with wine, beer and spirits? Absolutely nothing! Unless you think there=s a relationship between alcoholic spirits and the Halloween spirit world. And I strongly recommend against handing out wine or beer to >Trick or Treating= kids.

 With the holidays coming up, some friends have asked about wines that don=t cost an arm and a leg, say in the under $15 range. Here are some from Washington State:

 Covey Run Quail Series, 2005 Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon ($9), Morio Muscat ($8); Pine and Post 2005 Merlot ($6); Pavin & Riley 2005 Chardonnay ($10); Sockeye 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($12); Waterbrook Winery 2004 Melange ($15) and 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($14).

 If you=re bobbing for Halloween apples and make an apple pie, try the Chateau Ste. Michelle, WA. 2006 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley ($10). 91% Gewurztraminer, 9% Muscat Canelli. An off-dry white with aromas and flavors of lychee nuts, nutmeg and clove spice. Medium bodied and balanced finish. Food Pairing: crab, chicken, Asian dishes

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What=s the difference between aroma and bouquet?

 Got an e-mail the other day from a friend who wrote, "I've formed a new group called Alcoholics Unanimous. If you don't feel like drinking a glass of wine, you ring another member and he comes over to persuade you." Oh boy! Other more serious correspondence asked a variety of questions, the answers to which might be informative to readers.

 Q: What=s the difference between aroma and bouquet?

A: Bouquet refers to smells from winemaking, like yeast and oak from oak barrels. Aroma means smells from the grapes that are picked up from what the French call >terroir= (tare-wah), which is the term for the natural environment of any viticultural site.

 Jancis Robinson=s AThe Oxford Companion to Wine@ explains that terroir is the combination of climate as measured buy temperature and rainfall; sunlight energy at the site; topography including altitude, slope and aspect or direction the slope faces; geology - the soil=s basic physical and chemical characteristics, and hydrology or the soil-water relationship. (More than you wanted to know?)

 If you tend to mix up bouquet and aroma, you'll be frowned upon by the two people in the world that think this is important. So use >Nose=, and that=ll cover both.

 Q. What is meant by the >tears= in wine?

A. It=s a wine that makes you cry - only kidding. Tears are the rivulets of wine that slowly glide down the glass after swirling the wine, also called legs. They=re related to surface tension differences between water and alcohol. The more alcoholic the wine, the slower the legs go down the glass and the more defined they are. This doesn’t indicate a better wine, just a more alcoholic one.

 Q. What=s the difference between Syrah and Shiraz?

A. Syrah and Shiraz are made from the same grape. The only difference is the style in which it is made. When you see >Syrah=, you can expect a more subtle style of wine, reminiscent of what you would find in a French wine from the Rhone region of France.

 When you see the word >Shiraz=, you can pretty much count on the wine being made in the Australian style, which means big, bold fruit, and probably a strong sense of oak.

 Q. What does the term >Reserve= on a bottle label signify ?

A. In Europe, Reserve is a legal term with very strict rules about quality and ageing. In America, it often doesn’t mean much. In the best sense, some wineries use it for their best grapes; to a few it might mean more oak; still others slap it on their bottles indiscriminately. So rather look for the word >Estate Grown=, meaning grapes grown in the vineyards owned by the winery.

 Wine Tip: passed on from daughter Tracy! Save your corks. No, I'm not suggesting making trivets or cork boards (though great ideas) but to use them as mulch around outdoor potted plants or around shrubs. I use them in my garden and I believe the cork mulch saved many of my plants during our last icy blast. Besides they look cool and they're not in a landfill.

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Covey Run Winery

  2007 marks the 25th anniversary of Covey Run Winery. Since the release of the 1982 vintage, Covey Run has crafted high quality, economically priced wines from Washington's Columbia River Valley. Their wines have  been popular with consumers and have earned twenty Wine Spectator Best Values awards.

 Covey Run's portfolio includes two distinctive tiers of fine wine ‑ Quail Series  and Columbia Valley Reserve ‑ delicious wines for every occasion, from stylish entertaining to casual gatherings and picnics with family and friends.

Covey Run wines are produced by Centerra Wine Company at their winery (not open to the public) in Sunnyside, Washington. Centerra is the popular‑priced and premium wine producer of Constellation Wines U.S., which is part of Constellation Wines, the world's largest wine business, an operating division of Constellation Brands, Inc. (NYSE: STZ and STZ.B) ("CBI").

Covey Run hired a new winemaker, Ms. Kate Michaud effective August 1, 2007. Michaud will oversee production of Covey Run's popular Quail Series of wines as well as the limited‑production Columbia Valley Reserve tier. She comes from Washington's Canoe Ridge Vineyard where she held the post of Associate Winemaker.

  Wine has long been an integral part of Michaud's life. She said "I was exposed to wine at a 'tender age'. I was raised in the United Kingdom and traveled extensively throughout Europe as I was growing up. My parents always served wine with family meals."

  Along with local winemaking experience, Michaud has worked in New Zealand, Margaret River Australia and California's Central Coast. However, it is the chance to work amongst the burgeoning Washington wine industry that most excited her.

"This is an incredible position. I'm honored that Covey Run has offered me this opportunity, one that will allow me to work with the region's world‑class fruit.  I hope in the wines I make, consumers will become more aware of the amazing quality that Washington wines have to offer," states Michaud.

 One of my favorites is the 2004 Lemberger, Quail Series ($9). 100% Lemberger. It=s a medium bodied, dry red with a bright purple hue. Fresh cherries, red berries and plum aromas and flavor, it has a fresh acidic structure and soft tannins on the  finish. Pairs well with barbequed beef, pork or chicken.

 Sweet wine lovers will enjoy the 2005 Morio Muscat, Quail Series ($8). 100% Morio Muscat. Aromas of ripe tangerine, kiwi, clover, meadow flowers; peach and honeysuckle flavors. Food Pairing: Ideally suited to creamy goat cheese, toasted almonds, stone fruits, apples and pears. Also desserts such as cheesecake and caramel/nut dishes, or can be enjoyed on its own.

 Other recent releases include: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Quail Series ($9); 2003 Syrah, Winemaker=s Collection ($13) and 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Quail Series ($9)

 Visit www.coveyrun.com for more information about Covey Run Wines

 For those who would like to become more familiar with the local wineries, the owners are usually open to volunteer help during the Fall, winter and spring for grape picking, crush and bottling.

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Paso Robles, CA. Wine Country

 The Paso Robles, CA. Wine Country Alliance hosted a media lunch at Seattle=s Dahlia Lounge, with Paso Robles icon Mr. Gary Eberle, Eberle Winery, Mr. Tommy Oldre, Tablas Creek Winery and Opolo Vineyards= Mr. Fredrick Potruch National Sales and Marketing Manager.

 We started with Eberle=s 1987 and 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon library wines - that means they=re most likely   not for sale. I don=t often get the opportunity to taste ten and twenty year old wines from outstanding winemakers like Eberle, and I have to tell you that these were fantabulous!

 Softened by a few years in the bottle, these are smooth, full-bodied wines, still holding their dark red color. The 1987 had the expected light aromas and flavors of chocolate and leather, with hints of mint.

 The 1997 was considerably more powerful with aromas of blackberry and cherry with hints of oak. The palate felt a gracefully structured wine, that is, a balance of fruit, acids and tannins and a smooth, lingering mouth feel on the finish.

 Opolo Vineyards was represented by Mr. Fredrick Potruch, National Sales and Marketing Manager who presented their 2004 Petite Verdot and 2005 >Mountain= Zinfandel. The Zin was >huge=. I could smell its aromas from about eighteen inches away.

 After lunch there was a one hour tasting and seminar on the Paso Robles Region at the Seattle=s Palace Ballroom presented by Mr. Eberly and Mr. Tommy Oldre representing Paso Robles Rhone wines from Tablas Creek Winery. We learned that the Paso Robles appellation is located about half way between San Francisco and Los Angeles, and is California=s fastest growing wine region.

  Each winemaker discussed his winery and wines. Eberle gave special attention to the Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varietals for which the area is so well known. He believes that the Cabs are at least equal to, if not better than, those from the rest of California.

 After academic and athletic success at Penn State in the 1960s, and while attending Louisiana State University for a doctorate in zoology, a professor introduced him to the world of wine and changed his life.

 In 1973 he persuaded the faculty at UC Davis to admit him into the winemaking doctoral program without the necessary qualifying exam. (Didn’t tell us how he did that!) After UC Davis he headed his family=s Estrella winery in Paso Robles.

 In 1980 he co-founded the Paso Robles Appellation, and in 1983 opened the Eberle Winery. After more than 25 years, the winery consistently remains one of the highest award-winning wineries in the United States.

 After the seminar we attended the Grand Tasting of Paso Robles wines also at the Palace Ballroom where we had the opportunity to choose among any of the sixty wines of twenty two different varietals from fifteen different wineries.

 Testing Eberle=s belief at the Grand Tasting, found that I tended to agree, not only about the Cabs, but also the Zins. Other Cabs tasted and enjoyed include 2003 Clautiere, $28; 2005 J. Lohr, $17 and 2004, $30; 2005 Robert Hall, Silver Horse and Wild Horse, $21 each.

 Eberle Winery 2004 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($30). Rich black currant and black cherry aromas and flavors with hints of mocha.

 Zins tasted were 2005s from Eberle, $20, Four Vines $24, and Opolo, $19 and $26.

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Does wine go with Barbecue?

 Although beer is the favorite of many to go with burgers and hot dogs, wine is better with most other barbecued food. With the proliferation of gas barbecues, more and more outdoor cooking is being done. At our home we still have the old-fashioned briquette barbecue which Kathy prefers, but I understand the ease involved with using gas.

 Readers know that I do not favor heavily oaked Chardonnay. The exception might be with grilled fish or vegetables. I prefer lightly oaked wines, or better yet, those fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak barrels that don=t impart much oak flavor to the wine.

 Other whites to enjoy with barbeque are Pinot Gris (Wine of the Week), Fume= Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Rose=, as these will pair well with barbequed white fish, pork and chicken.

 Some I have enjoyed in past barbeques:

 Columbia Winery, WA  2005 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley ($14 ). 100% Pinot Gris; A dry white with aromas & flavors of citrus and sweet fruits and hint of minerals. Look for lemon and lemongrass on a crisp finish. Great with barbequed shrimp. Other excellent Columbia Winery wines are the 2002 Merlot and Syrah, Columbia Valley, each $15.

Barron Philippe De Rothschild FR. NV Mouton Cadet Blanc ($9). A blend of 50% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Muscadelle, a Bordeaux style dry white with aromas of citrus and tropical fruit and flavors of grapefruit, mango and apricot.

 Hartford Family Winery, CA. 2005 Chardonnay ($40). 100% Chardonnay. Aromas and flavors of white peach, citrus blossom, Asian pear, candied lemon; long, spicy  finish.

 The Osborne, Spain 2005 Solaz Blanco ($9). A straw yellow color with steel edges, aromas and  flavors of  tropical fruit and anise and a smooth, balanced finish.

 A more meaty fish such as tuna or salmon needs a Pinot Noir or Merlot. Try Cathedral Ridge Winery, OR. 2005 Pinot Noir ($24). 100% Pinot Noir. Aromas and flavors of baked blueberry pie, it has a medium body and smooth finish. Or treat yourself to Domaine Serene, Dayton OR. 2004 Pinot Noir ($50). Aromas of dark cherry, red raspberry, and earth; flavors of black raspberry, violets, and oak spice; a long, seamless finish. Wow!

 Barbequed red meat like steak deserves a good Merlot or Zinfandel. We=re talking here about a lean steak like a filet. Try the Fritz, CA. 2004 Estate Zinfandel ($25). 100% Zinfandel with aromas and flavors of spicy black fruit, hints of spices, violets and prunes. A balanced wine with a spicy finish.

 Clos Du Val, Napa, CA. 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley ($26). A blend of  96% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Aromas of spice, black fruit, dried herbs, hint of toast; flavors of black fruit and herbs; full bodied with a soft,  lingering finish.

 Ribeye steak, which has more fat, will benefit from a Cabernet or Barolo. The tannin helps cut the richness of the fat. Try Sockeye WA. 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc. Aromas of black cherries, herbs and cedar; flavors of leather, cedar and black cherries; full body; long, smooth finish.

I found a La Logia, Italy 2002 Barolo at Trader Joe=s in Seattle for $16. A great tasting Barolo at a bargain price, as is their Barbera.

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Rose' Wines

 Rose= wines are often called the 'summertime wines'. 2003 was the 30th anniversary of the invention of the rose= wine labeled White Zinfandel. In the USA, it was 1973, at Sutter Home Winery in St. Helena, California where owner Bob Trinchero, seeking to give his red Zinfandel more color and flavor, used an old French trick called saignee, or "bleeding."

 Immediately after the grapes were crushed, he bled away some of the juice to make the remaining juice more concentrated as it soaked on the skins. A friend suggested that Trinchero also save the saignee juice. He vinified it, but customers complained that it was too dry, so he sweetened it. Then his consumers loved it, and white zin was born.

 Rose's exploded in popularity, making up 24 percent of all varietal wine from California by the 1990s before falling back a bit recently. Critics bashed it, and all blush wines, as too bland, too simple - wine for people who don't really like wine. Not necessarily true.

 Trinchero believed that since wine critics are trained in classic fine wine, they don't come to grips with the everyday enjoyment of everyday wine. He said that even in Europe, what most people drink is vin ordinaire from plastic, screw-top bottles. He has introduced millions of Americans to the pleasures of wine drinking. Trinchero has taken his white zin from 550 cases that first year to 4.8 million in 2002.

 It is thought that the first rose= wines probably came from Greece in ancient times. The Greeks even had a myth for the practice of adding water to wine, therefore diluting the color of red wine. According to the myth, Amphictyon, son of Deucalion and Pyrrah, ordered the wine mixed with water at meetings of his councilors to dilute its strength and therefore cut down on drunkenness and quarrels.

 So we can assume, mythologically speaking, that rose= was born in ancient times. In reality it was probably a  far more practical happenstance like a rushed fermentation on the skins, leaving only a little color, but obviously an appealing color to the artistically inclined Greeks.

 Rose=s can be made from any red grape - Grenache, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel even Cabernet Sauvignon.

 Some you might enjoy:

Chateau Ste. Michelle, WA. 2006 Dry Rose=, Nellie=s Garden ($13). Grape Varietals: 96% Syrah, 1.5 Grenache, 1.5% Viognier, 1% Mourvedre. A dry Rose= with a light red color, it has aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry raspberry with hints of spice, a medium body and balanced finish. Great with spring and Summer BBQ=s.

 Twin Finn, CA. 2006 Sunset Rose= ($10). Just absolutely made for Summertime sipping! This 100% Sangiovese, off-dry Rose= wine has aromas of rhubarb and vanilla and strawberry flavors. A medium bodied wine with a nicely balanced finish.

 Pietra Santa, CA. 2005 Rosato ($15-$20). An off-dry Rose= from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it has aromas of rose petals and summer fruit like its flavors of ripe strawberries and peaches. The 14.8 percent alcohol gives it a medium body and a crisp, refreshing finish. Pair it with seafood and lighter cuisine, but also delicious on its own.

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The Puget Sound Appellation

 A controlled appellation is a specific geographical area authorized by the country of origin. Gerard Bentryn, owner and winemaker of Bainbridge Island Vineyards and Winery, was kind enough to remind me about some other significant bits of information.

 One of the most significant ideas behind appellation control is that when winemakers place the name of the appellation on their label it means that the winery has complied with the rules and regulations of that appellation. This includes the rule that the grapes for that specific wine are all grown within that geographical area.

 There can be any number of wineries that exist within that geographical area, but not all of them follow the rules and regulations of the controlled appellation. Those that don=t can=t put the appellation name on the label. It=s similar to the idea that Kitsap County is a specific geographical area - a controlled appellation - and there are cities within the county - specific wineries - that follow the rules of that county, and are allowed to use the name of the county in their address.

 Also, wineries within an appellation can make wine from grapes grown both in and out of the appellation, but only the wines made from grapes within the appellation are allowed to have the name of the appellation on the label.

 Bentryn writes, AIf the wineries that insist on making Eastern Washington wine in Western Washington used Puget Sound on any material that markets their wines, including labels, shelf talkers, table tents, or literature, they would be in clear violation not only of Federal law, but also, the moral law that inspires true wine lovers all over the world.@

 He believes that the issue is more important now that insect pests are established in Eastern Washington. AThe insecticides used in Eastern Washington are extremely hazardous, killing fish and birds, and reportedly causing spontaneous nosebleeds in field workers. Grapes are being shipped from these contaminated areas to the Puget Sound region. The potential to bring those pests here is very real.@

 He indicated that at least one of the poisons being sprayed on Eastern Washington wine grapes is Imidchloprid. It works by being absorbed directly into the grape vine, killing anything that eats the vine. This doesn't sound like something Puget Sound grape growers would like to be required to use.

 Bentryn insists that no Puget Sound Appellation vineyard and winery has ever sprayed any insecticide. ASo, the fact that real Puget Sound wine may be the only wine made from unsprayed grapes is very important in itself, but it is also important to distinguish wineries that do not use sprayed grapes from those that do, and right now, Puget Sound Wineries make wine from insecticide free grapes.@

 You can find more information on the issue in the WSU publication, "Crop Profile for Wine Grapes in Washington" available online.

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Wines for Christmas and New Years Celebrations

Readers ask about red wines, especially soft red wines, to have for Christmas and New Years celebrations. Soft meaning smoother and less tannic than the big Cabernet Sauvignon or Australian Shiraz. That brings to mind some of the wines we've enjoyed in the past and plan on selecting among for pairing with our holiday dinners. And most are easy on the budget.

Saint Laurent, Malaga, WA. 2004 Lucky Red ($15). A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Syrah and 21% Merlot. This dry red blend has a dark, ruby red color; cherry, currant, vanilla and black tea aromas and flavors, with hints of clove. It s a medium-full bodied wine with a smooth, mouth- filling finish. Food Pairing: red or white meat or rich pasta dishes in a meaty, spicy tomato sauce.

Covey Run, WA. 2004 Lemberger, Quail Series ($9). 100% Lemberger. A dry red in a deep red color with bright purple hues. Fresh cherry, red berry and plum aromas and flavors. It has a medium body, fresh acidic structure and soft tannins on the finish. Pairs well with beef, pork or chicken, best barbequed.

Georges Duboeuf, France 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau ($11). 100% Gamay. A medium-dark red color, it has raspberry and red currant aromas and flavors, a medium body and a smooth, bright finish. Pairs nicely with turkey, roast ham or other holiday fare.

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Rosa, CA 2003 Meritage, Vintners Reserve ($12). A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry-red color, it has espresso, dark chocolate, pomegranate and black cherry aromas and flavors. A medium bodied wine with balanced finish. Pairs well with tri-tip steak.

Osborne, Spain 2005 Solaz Merlot Tempranillo ($9). A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Tempranillo. This dry red wine has a brilliant cherry red color with aromas and flavors of jammy red fruit. It is a medium bodied wine with a balanced, flavorful finish. Food Pairing: red or white meat, rich pasta dishes, aged cheeses and fatty fish.

Jean-Luc Colombo, France NV Cotes du Rhone Les Abeilles ($11). A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre. It s a dry red wine with a red-purple color. The red fruit, leather and spice aromas are followed by licorice and spice flavors. A medium bodied wine with a soft, balanced finish. Will pair with turkey, roast ham or other holiday fare.

Cooper Mountain Winery, Beaverton, OR. 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve ($45 ). Style: dry red;100% Pinot Noir; medium dark red color; aromas of pine, cedar, and fresh forest berry fruit; flavors of blueberries and plums; medium body; balanced finish with nice acidity. Food Pairing: goes with many dishes. Those who enjoy wines made with 100% Organically, Biodynamic and Estate grown grapes, will like this one.

Rosemount Estate, Australia 2006 Pinot Noir, ($10). 100% Pinot Noir. A bright red color with purple hues, this Pinot has strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors with hints of rose petal, a medium body and a velvety soft finish.

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Wine Customs and Traditions

A search of the internet and some of my many wine books led to the source of some of the wine customs and  superstitions from the past that persist today.

 The clinking of glasses when offering a toast is a long observed custom. In the past, superstitious drinkers worried that demons would take their souls if they drank too much. To protect themselves, they clinked their glasses together hoping the noise would scare them off.

 The tradition of breaking a bottle of champagne on the bow of a ship before its first or maiden voyage dates back to pre-Christian pagan rites. Sailors who wanted protection from the sea gods anger implored the goddess whose image jutted out from the prow to assure their safety.

 According to historians, the custom was started by the Vikings, who used human sacrifices to appease the gods. Before the ships were sent down the ramps into the sea, slaves were tied to the rollers. Their blood was caught then sprinkled over the prow to appease the gods and protect the sailors from enemies. In time this gory custom was replaced by the less gory tradition of breaking a bottle of red wine on the prow. Sometime later, Champagne became as the sacrifice of choice.

 The custom of pouring wine into the host's glass before filling the guest's dates back to medieval times when assassination was a popular way to dispose of enemies. One of the easiest ways was to serve the victim the poisoned wine. As a show of faith the host poured a few drops of wine into his own glass to drink first.

 Others believe the custom came about as a way to make sure any stray pieces of cork would be deposited in the host's glass. (This is something I do routinely.)

 However, the Italians observed this custom long before corks were invented. They topped wine bottles with oil to seal the neck of the container, much the same way that a glass of jelly is sealed today with paraffin. The oil was poured off before the bottle was presented to the host, who then poured a few drops into his glass to make sure oil was not floating on top of the wine.

 Spilling wine. The superstition that spilled wine threatens health and safety originated in ancient times when it was believed that the juice of the grapes represented blood and contained its own spirit. If the wine was spilled, it was a warning that an evil spirit would take over the culprit's spirit.

 To avoid the threat from the evil spirit, the spiller rubbed the wine behind his ear using the middle finger of the right hand (don't go there). The area behind the ears was believed to be invulnerable, and the right middle finger the proper digit with which to undo evil influences.

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Riesling Wines for Mother’s Day

 Mother=s day is Sunday, May 11 this year, and a good wine gift would be a Riesling wine such as the Wine of the Week Chateau Ste. Michelle WA. 2006 Riesling from their Cold Creek Vineyard.

 Appreciation for Riesling wine in general is not now, nor has it ever been, as enthusiastic as one would expect. Its lack of popularity has confounded its winemakers about as much as its history.

 The Riesling vine is said to be traced back to Germany and the year 1435. Throughout the history of Riesling there are numerous writings about this grape from 1552 to 1721. Most of these writings come from Germany and describe the Riesling grape growing in the Rhine valley.

 By the end of the 19th century Riesling was the dominant grape variety in the Rheingau region of Germany. But the early 20th century saw a rapid decline in the acceptance of the wine that appears to have lasted until recently. This prompted Germany to reserve land especially for growing the grape, and now the Riesling grape is treated as a national treasure in Germany.

  The first reference to this grape in Australia was in 1820 in New South Wales. Riesling Wine means different things to different people and in Australia the word Riesling actually refers to any sweet wine variety. Stricter laws have been enforced recently, so when you see Riesling on the label you are in fact getting a wine made from Riesling grapes.

 Washington State appears to be bringing back Riesling and its acceptance has been increasing. I know that when I have the urge for a sweet wine for dinner, I look in my wine cabinet for a Riesling. Right now I have three new releases of Chateau Ste. Michelle WA.2005 Riesling, Columbia Valley ($10.00), and 2006 Riesling, Cold Creek ($14) 2006 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley ($10.00) and one Owen Roe OR. 2002 Riesling ($12). Good ones last a long time.

 Over the past few years our wine tasting group has had the pleasure of tasting a number of 2005 Washington State Rieslings including those from Avery Lane ($7), Hogue ($9) and Hogue Genesis ($16). There is also a Dry Riesling from Covey Run ($8) and Washington Hills Late Harvest Riesling ($9).

 A Dry Riesling is made from grapes that have full ripe flavors, but not too much sugar. The resulting wine has a very slight perception of sweetness. On the other hand, a Late Harvest Riesling has a rich, fruity sweetness that might go well with the natural sugars of roasted pears in a free-form tart.

 I=ve also tasted 2005 Australian Rieslings from Banrock Station ($5), Emu Wine Company Tasmania Riesling ($20) (Tasmania is an island125 miles south of the eastern side of the continent, being separated from it by Bass Strait), and had a wine tasting party that included a Hardys Stamp of Australia Riesling 4 ltr box ($18).

 Happy Mother=s Day to all.

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The Origins of Father’s Day

 Happy Father=s day! Father's Day was created as a day for children to honor their fathers. Of the recorded origins, the one I like best was said to have begun in Spokane, Washington.

 Ms. Sonora Smart got the idea of having a Father's Day while listening to a Mother's Day sermon in 1909. After the death of her mother, she and her siblings were raised by their father, William Jackson Smart. Ms. Smart wanted to tell her father how special he was, so she chose to hold the first Father's Day celebration in Spokane on his birthday, June 19, 1910.The National Father's Day Committee was formed in New York City in 1926. A Joint Resolution of Congress recognized Father's day in 1956, and in 1966 President Richard Nixon established a permanent national observance of Father's Day to be held on the third Sunday of June. Thus, Father's Day was born in memory and appreciation by a daughter who believed that her father and all other fathers should be honored with a special day.

 Many people think flowers are just for women and are a feminine present. However dad's appreciate the gift of flowers too because they are a loving and thoughtful gift.

 Traditionally fathers are given the gift of white or red roses, though some may prefer more macho plants or flowers that a florist can recommend. If you wear a flower on Father's Day you should wear a red rose if your father is alive or a white rose in memory of him.

 Of course, my idea of a great Father=s Day gift for a living dad would be a bottle of wine - surprise! - and a big hug. Either a red or a white wine is appropriate. Wife Kathy suggests a bottle of Port for red, and I believe a bottle of Viognier is fine for white.

 I really enjoyed the Wine of the Week. Other excellent Port selections include Cockburn=s, Spain 1998 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Porto ($20), and Hardys, Australia NV Tawny Port ($13)

 For white try Wattle Creek Winery, CA. 2005 Viognier ($31). Aromas of white peach blossom, stone fruit and hints of toasted oak; flavors of nectarine with hints of lychee. It has a medium body, nice length, crisp, clean finish. Food Pairing: chevre or other white cheeses.

 Other Viogniers to try are Cline Cellars, Sonoma, CA. 2004 ($10), Victor Hugo Winery CA. 2004 ($17), Clautiere Vineyard CA. 2003 Estate Viognier ($23)

 Washington wineries showing Viogniers at Taste Washington include Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 ($18); Bunnell Family Cellar 2006 ($22); Caterina 2003 ($20); Chatter Creek  2006 ($20); Coeur d=Alene Cellars 2005 ($18); Coyote Canyon Winery Estate 2006; Nefarious Cellars 2006 ($16); Seia Wine Cellars 2004 ($17); Vin du Lac Winery Viognier 2005 ($17.99); Whitman Cellars Viognier 2005 ($19) and Willis Hall Viognier 2005 ($19.99)

Happy Father's Day to all.

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Enological, or Wine, Society Chapters are now found in many areas throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Grapes and settlers spread across Washington State in the early 1800s, but a big wine event didn't take place until 1910 when the first annual Columbia Valley Grape Carnival was held in Kennewick, WA.

 Today's world-wide acclaimed fine Washington State wines, and over 500 wineries, really began with what is now Chateau Ste. Michelle=s commercial plantings in the 1960s and 70s. Seattle wine enthusiasts started meeting in the 1970s to learn more about wine and promote its enjoyment with food. In 1975 they created the Enological Society of the Pacific Northwest. In 2004 they changed the name to the Seattle Wine Society.

 Enological, or Wine, Society Chapters are now found in many areas throughout the Pacific Northwest. Each chapter is individually registered with the State as a non-profit organization with 501-C7 status.

 Beginning our couple membership with the Seattle chapter in the 1990s, we transferred our membership to the Olympic Peninsula Enological Society (OPES) chapter when it started in the Sequim area in 2002. But we were concerned about the long drive to both chapters after wine tasting.

 So in January, 2003, I conned good friend Ms. Mary Earl, owner of Grape Expectations fine Wine Shop in Silverdale, into helping us start the Kitsap Wine Society (KWS). Flyers with membership applications were distributed along with my wine class flyers, and the response was immediate.

 By May there were 40 charter members signed up and we soon had ninety members. A preliminary Board of Trustees applied for and were granted non-profit status with the state, elections were held for board members, and our chapter was on its way.

 The Kitsap Wine Society is non‑profit organization run entirely by member/volunteers, whose goals include educating members about the wonderful world of wine, bringing together wine lovers to share good wine, good food, and conversation about both.

 The group ranges in experience from what some might describe as wine snobs to neophytes, all wishing to learn more about wine. Members live on the Kitsap Peninsula of Washington State, that is, between the Tacoma Narrows and Hood Canal Bridges.

 Most chapter Web sites have links to the other chapters, so you can get the most up to date information at the Web site of the chapter you=re interested in. There is a small yearly membership fee which entitles one to attend the meetings of any chapter as a member. Monthly meetings are educational wine-food events for which a small fee is charged.

 To become a member, visit the KWS Web site, www.kitsapwines.org. the Web site also lists location, times and costs for each event. Membership information is also available from the Membership Chair, currently Ms. Mary Earl, at 698-0522.

   KWS Spring, 2008 meetings planned:

January 26th: Sparkling wines and Dessert wines.

March 15th: Pinot Calif Santa Rita Hills vs Oregon, Mr. Bob Bently, chairman.

April 12th:  High end Cab tasting, Chuck Tourville, chairman.

May 3rd:  Local award winning Winemaker

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Travelling Washington State Appellations

 The Washington Wine commission recently reported that Washington State is the second largest premium wine producer in the United States. Their data shows 19 wineries in 1981, over 460 in 1997, and 500 now. There are 350 grape growers working 30,000 acres to produce more than 20 grape varieties, with a ratio of 57 percent red to 43 percent white.

 It would be next to impossible to visit every single one and taste their wines unless you spent a lot of time each year devoted to winery tours. And even then the numbers seem to be expanding so rapidly that you may never catch up - horrors!

 Over the past 15 years we=ve managed to visit about half the wineries in each appellation, usually with friends and family. We selected one appellation at a time and visited as many of the wineries as possible over a three to four day weekend.

 A discussion of AAppellation@ is cause for a column all by itself. Briefly, in her book, The Oxford Companion to Wine, Master of Wine Jancis Robinson writes that an appellation is a delimited geographical area recognized A...to establish a distinctive identity for the wines produced within it.@

 Washington State has nine appellations, the closest being our own Puget Sound Appellation established in 1995. Our appellation currently has about fifty two wineries including twelve on the Olympic Peninsula from Port Angeles to Olympia. More on this in the future.

 Another good way to taste your way around Washington would be to attend events like Taste Washington which is held each year, usually in March or April. This year their Grand Tasting was held on April 15th at the Quest Field Event Center in Seattle.

 The event showcased about 200 wineries each presenting two to four wines, and 60 Puget Sound restaurants serving one or two heavy hors d=oeuvres.

 Prior to the event, the wineries and restaurants get together and decide what food to pair with which wine. Hors d=oeuvres from each restaurant were paired with the wines from two or three wineries and these were placed along side.

 After sampling a number of the restaurant=s food offerings without wine, (lunch), I managed to taste through the wines of about fifteen wineries in three hours, with the food pairings offered.

 Tasting this number of wines at this type of event requires one to spit the wine into the dump buckets provided and dump the rest of the wine. However (there=s always an however), there=s often some wines  that I consider a sin to spit and dump.

 The $85 general admission cost was well worth it because the food and wine pairings were outstanding. And that=s a lot less expensive than traveling to most of our appellations. (Looking at the map of attending wineries again I noticed that I missed the dessert wine area, Darn! I=ll look forward to next year!

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 Ron Tweiten's Harbor Square Tasting Room and Wine Shop

A media invitation to a tasting of Cline, California wines took me to the Harbor Square Tasting Room and Wine Shop. Owner Mr. Ron Tweiten has an elegant wine shop at 756 Winslow Way E. on Bainbridge Island. He purchased the building in the Harbor Square area of Winslow soon after its completion, and named the shop after the area. 

  The Tweiten's have lived in Poulsbo since the early 1950s. He has a number of years marketing experience, has participated in industry tastings, knows the various distributors and understands local area customer s preferences for wines.  He worked at North Sound Bank in Poulsbo for 10 years and retired in 2000 as a senior vice president.

 He enjoyed being involved in wine as a hobby for a number of years. He decided to fulfill his dream and opened the Harbor Square Wine Shop & Tasting Room in February, 2000 shortly after Larry Davidson, Tweiten s mentor, closed up his Winslow Wine Shop.

  Son Jeff originally took the different career path of graphic design, but eventually decided to join his father in the wine business. He designed the interior layout of the shop and when you visit you ll see that he has made it a most wine-lover friendly shop.

  The wines are displayed in horizontal wine racks that keep the wine on the cork, and reaching from the floor to almost chest high for great visibility. They are staged by region instead of varietal which makes for a very interesting display. The Tasting Room is set up for casual wine tasting with tall tables and chairs placed at strategic locations around the room.

  There are two unique wine storage areas that you don t see in most other wine shops. The Wine Keeper Cuvnet is a device for dispensing wine-by-the-glass, and holds twelve high quality wines on nitrogen gas to prevent oxygen spoilage. A separate walk-in room at the back of the shop holds the higher value wines at a constant 55 degrees F.

  Five ounce tastings cost from $5.50 for 2006 Lindeman s Bin 65 Shiraz, South Eastern Australia to $17 for 2004 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Oregon. Tweiten also has everyday tastings of unique wines, arranged in flights of three, for $5. The retail value of the wines is between $20 and $50. For example, a recent tasting of Northwest wines included an Isenhower Cellars Vioginer, a Syzygy Winery red blend (both Walla Walla) and a Domaine Drouhin, Oregon, Pinot Noir.

The shop has a wide-ranging breadth and depth in its selection of wines - 660 labels from around the world, and about 5,000 bottles in inventory, including about 140 labels from Washington State. Costs range from $8 to $440 per bottle, with many in the $10 to $20 value range. Tweiten said, These are wines you won t find in the supermarkets.

Some of Tweiten's other favorites: Quinta du Cresto, Douro, Spain ($38); Clarendon Hills, Australia 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($46); Alexandria Nicole, Columbia Valley 2006 Viognier ($18); Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling, 2005 Kabinet ($31).

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Controlled Appellation

A previous column mentioned that a discussion of  Appellation would be cause for an column all by itself. Further research revealed a lot of interesting historical information. It looks like most, if not all, winemaking countries have an appellation control system.

 A controlled appellation is a geographical‑based term used to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown. Rules governing appellations depend on the country that produces  the wine. And the controlled appellation designation takes on different but similar names in the language of each country.

 The world's first vineyard classification system is said to have been introduced by the Hungarians in Tokaj‑Hegyalja, Hungary in 1730. At that time vineyards were classified into three categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop Botrytis cinerea.

 A royal decree by the Hungarian crown in 1757 established a closed production district in Tokaj (Tokay). The classification system was completed by a national censuses in 1765 and 1772.

 The world's second oldest appellation control was introduced in Portugal in 1756 pertaining to port wine which was produced in the region of the Douro valley. Rioja was classified as a Denominacin de Origen in 1925 and sherry in 1933.

 In1935, the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO), a branch of the French Ministry of Agriculture, was created to manage the administration of the process for wines in France. In the Rhone wine region Baron Pierre Le Roy Boiseaumari, a trained lawyer and winegrape grower from Chateauneuf‑du‑Pape, successfully obtained legal recognition of the "Cotes du Rhone" appellation of origin in 1937.

 The AOC seal was created and mandated by French laws in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. Prior to 1935, despite the fact that the INAO was yet to be created, champagne enjoyed an appellation control by virtue of legal protection as part of the Treaty of Madrid (1891).

 The treaty stated that only sparkling wine produced in its namesake region and adhering to the standards defined for that name as an Appellation d'Origine Controlle could call itself champagne. This right was reaffirmed in the Treaty of Versailles following World War I.

 There are currently over 170 viticultural areas that have been established in the United States by the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau and over 100 are in California. The first recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA)  was Augusta, Missouri, in 1980. The First in Washington was Yakima Valley in 1983. Puget Sound was fifth in 1995.

 Thought for the day: Men are like fine wine, they start out as grapes; and it's up to the women to squeeze the heck out of them until they turn into something acceptable to have dinner with.

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Start Holiday Dinners With Sparkling Wine

We like to start Holiday dinners, in fact most dinners with family and/or friends, with sparkling wine, whether there are appetizers or not. It=s just a most pleasant way to gather and enjoy their company, being ever mindful of their love and support. It adds a celebratory note to the meal and goes well with starters like soup and salad.

 Most of the good sparklers are made with some combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

One of my favorites is the Domaine Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA. NV Extra Dry ($12). Primarily Chardonnay, this off-dry sparkling wine is a rich gold color. It has aromas and flavors of pear, guava and citrus, a medium body, and a lingering finish.

 Another is the Domaine Ste. Michelle, WA. NV Blanc de Blancs ($12). If you prefer a pink or rose=, there=s  Mumm Napa CA. NV Blanc De Noirs ($18)  and Taltarni Vineyards, Australia NV Brut Tache= Sparkling Rose= ($22).

 The traditional Thanksgiving meal can be difficult to match with wine. Roasted turkey, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, broccoli, Brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes all have different flavors. Turkey meat is very dry in texture and needs a mouth-watering wine to complement it.

 Off-dry whites like Chenin Blanc and dry white Riesling and dry whites such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Colombard, Pinot Blanc and  one of my favorites, Viognier, will satisfy the white wine lover. Try Chateau Ste. Michelle WA. 2006 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley ($13.00) or the Waterbrook Winery WA. 2005

Chardonnay ($13).

 Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Gamay, Lemberger, Grenache and Zinfandel have juicy, berry-ripe flavors that go well with turkey and may suffice for the red wine lover. Try the Clos Du Val, CA. 2005 Pinot Noir, ($28),  Cathedral Ridge Winery, OR. 2005 Zinfandel ($24) or Eberle, Winery, CA. 2006 Viognier.

 Ham pairs well with light reds like Gamay Beaujolais and Pinot Noir, and white wines like Gewurztraminer, late harvest Gewurztraminer, and off-dry Riesling. Try the Chateau Ste. Michelle WA. 2006 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley ($10), Wild Horse Winery &Vineyards, CA. 2005 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($25) or King Estate, OR. 2004 Signature Pinot Noir ($26).

 Some may forgo other wines and continue drinking sparkling wine with either turkey or ham. And keep in mind that every wine does not have to be perfectly matched with every food, and visa-versa.

 Since Thanksgiving dinner is often a banquet-style meal, with everyone choosing the trimmings, why not do the same with your wines? Offer both red and white, and possibly more than one depending on the size of your group.

 Complement or contrast. A big, buttery Chardonnay can complement the roasted, smoky flavors of squash, chestnuts and pecan stuffing. But if you'd rather have a contrast to the richness of cream sauces and dressings, try a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.

 End on a sweet note. If anyone still has room left when it's time for pumpkin or pecan pie, offer a late harvest wine or Icewine. Try the Washington Hills, Seattle, WA. 2005 Columbia Valley Late Harvest Riesling ($9). If you're a chocolate fan, try serving a liqueur with complementary flavors such as raspberry or blackcurrant, or the Bainbridge Island or Hoodsport Raspberry dessert wine.

 We wish all a most enjoyable Thanksgiving Holiday.

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